The action since then can probably best be described as living from the back of a kayak (literally – no raft support this time!). I met up with three others from the NZ crew in Nepal – Polly (who I paddled with in Canada), Louis (Wellington paddler) and Ngaio (Christchurch paddler) and we headed out east for a two week mission with the aim of paddling the Balephi, Bhote Kosi, Tamba Kosi and the Tamur, all of which flow into the Sun Kosi
Ngaio and I both had bouts of sickness in the early stages so while Louis
and Polly hit the challenging Tamba Kosi, Ngaio and I headed down the Sun
Kosi once again and after paddling the Balephi and Bhote Kosi met them at
the confluence of the two rivers. The Sun Kosi was almost unrecognisable in
low water, and despite the huge stretches of flat “dog-water” we made it
down to the take-out in just over three days. From there it was half a day
in a jeep and 3 days of magnificent trekking (clear views of Makalu and
Kanchenjunga, NO tourists and great porters to cart our boats) to the put-in
for the Tamur River.
The Tamur is a substantial river, with two more demanding whitewater
sections at the top and bottom and few but friendly locals and beautiful
scenery along the way. It was one of my major expedition goals in Nepal and
I have to say that if you’re after a superb trek and kayaking combo and
challenging but not super-gnarly water, and have a great team (which we did)
then it’s a terrific trip. After 3 1/2 days on the Tamur we hit the bottom
of the Sun Kosi again and endured a 17 hour local bus ride back to Kathmandu
– an experience, but not one I will choose to repeat soon!
After a quick trip back to the Bhote Kosi for the Himalayan Whitewater
Challenge (NZ’ers gained 2nd in the mens and 1st and 2nd in the Womens – a
fine result) we’re back in Kathmandu preparing for a final fling out west.
I’m really enjoying my boating at the moment (despite a swim which I’m still
nursing the bruises from four days later) so am looking forward to this.