Kiteworld Magazine- 2000km World Record

Thanks to Ariana for putting this Kiteworld article together. It has been a long time coming but here it is, for those that haven’t seen it yet.

Have you ever thought about solo kiting for thousands of kilometres in a foreign country without a tent or your teddy bear?…Or a support boat? Or more than one kite? Yeah, me neither. Sounds a bit mad really. But 36-year old Wellington kitesurfer Louis Tapper kited the Brazilian coastline, from Salvador to Praia do Meio Beach in Sao Luis, breaking the record for the longest kite journey in the process. I checked in with him after his triumphant return to find out that he doesn’t dig the ‘crazy’ label, and that there were moments of ‘flow’ on his epic adventure.

Kiteworld Magazine Article

Onwards to South America

The journey continues but my time travelling and kiting around France, Sardinia and Morocco is almost done.  Next, its time to start booking flights as I turn my attention to South America.

Downwinders in Essaouira

I’m being lured by the waves and wind in Northern Peru, and the fresh powdery snow on the volcano peaks of Chile are making me drool over some potential snowkiting.  I’m finding it tough to get reliable information about snowkiting in Chile and Argentina so if anybody can point me in the right direction then that would be great!

Play time in Dakhala

I also really want to go back to Brazil, which may seem crazy after all the time I spent there last year, but I have some unfinished business to do.  While rushing through my 2000km world record I passed by what looked like some of the most pristine, untouched kite beaches that offered both flat water and wave riding options.  They are what I call my secret spots (and yes I am keeping them a secret for now), while I pull together some ideas about potentially sharing these locations with others through a new business venture which will offer a very different kite holiday compared to the current downwinder between Fortaleza and Jeri option.

Unhooked moves in Dakhala

I am however looking for some kite guinea pigs who might want to help share the adventure with me, so if you are an advanced kitesurfer and in Brazil during August or November then drop me a note.  Also if you have a well run Pousada or accommodation service north of Fortaleza or provide kite services or downwind trips in Brazil or Peru then I am also looking for partners and can help promote your services, just leave a comment below.

Mingling with the rich and famous in Antibes

Hanging on beaches and kitespots of Sardina

Snow kiting in France

SurfAid- www.surfaidinternational.org

Now I’m aware that I haven’t updated the blog in the last week of kitesurfing and there is some interest to hear the rest of the story. The blogs are written and there are some interesting moments especially in the last 3 days.

So here’s the deal, I really want to help the SurfAid charity as I think they are a fantastic award-winning organisation. They have made a real difference to the lives of people in the Mentawai and Nias islands, off Indonesia’s Sumatran coast.

If you have enjoyed reading the blog, been entertained or think it’s just plain crazy, then it would be fantastic if you could donate some money to SurfAid.  You can do this via their website:  www.surfaidinternational.org And please write “Louis Tapper” where it asks:  How did you hear about us (SurfAid)?

In return I will publish a blog post for each 200 dollars donated.  Some of the tales included in these posts include tips on how to fix a kite harness the “Kiwi Number 8 wire” way, and why viewing a GPS device through a condom is not always easy.

I realise there are many other organizations asking for your hard earned money, but I genuinely think SurfAid has a very responsible community development approach and have made a significant, long term difference with the work they have done.

I can also come and talk to groups or organizations about the trip, if a donation is made to the SurfAid charity.  It might take me a while to sort through the photos but I certainly have some good stories to tell.

TV3

Check out TV3 tonight (6pm) for a follow up story on the trip.

Jeri

Arriving in Jeri felt like arriving in Vegas after being in the countryside. This weekend was busier that most because of a Brazilian holiday.

We arrived in a 5 person vehicle with 8 people a ton of windsurf kit and kites. The party started as soon as we arrived at 10.30 and didn’t let up until the sun rose. The only challenge then became making it up again for sunset.

Every night from 5 until 6, everyone congregates on the nearby sunset dune to watch the amazing sun go down. Sunset watching had a tribal feel to it with people applauding as the sun disappeared off into the water.

Jeri has been a internationally famous windsurf location for some time and more recently for kitesurfing. It’s one of the windier spots on the North Eastern coast. The unique thing about this place is the sand lined streets, funky bars and restaurants.

Today I sat in Club Ventos overlooking the bay and watched life go by. The place is in a prime location next to the designated world class windsurf area. Prea seems to be more popular for kiters and makes for a great downwind at sunset back to Jeri.

The end of my trip is rapidly nearing the end, so its back to the reality of work soon. For the moment, I am en route to Cumbuco to pack and sort out gear.

Globo TV interview

Another interview after my finish in Sao Luis
http://intertvonline.globo.com/rn/noticias.php?id=6951

Chilling in Barra Grande

I am making my way back to Cumbuco, slowly via some good spots I spotted on my downwinder. Barra Grande is one of those spots that is free from the husstle, has great kiting and is uncrowded. I think the areal photo says it all.
My body is still waking up at 6.30 but the automatic urge to check the weather and get organisned has gone. The nightmares and waking up in a cold sweat over light wind, off shore wind and reefs has stopped…I think.
Anyway off to Jerri next for some party and a bit of kiting. Just waiting for a ride and I will be there.

Fortune does favour the bold

Quick post to say I have finished the 2000km today, 30 days after I started. Yes I am pleased to finish and somewhat relived. I am looking forward to do some stress free kiting and waking up late.
The last 3 days were not really stress free kiting, finishing with a 40km open water crossing today.
The last 3 days have been some of the most epic kiting of the whole trip and I will do a full post in time. For the moment beer and food awaits!

Day 23

A fantastic start to the day with breakfast served up at 5.15am this morning.

It felt like the longest offshore wind that I have experienced so far and with really light wind conditions.  The wind dropped down to 7 knots at times leaving me with no option to concentrate on keeping the kite flying at all costs. Eventually I made it back into land after 1.5 hours of being so far out I was only 3-4km from the oil drilling platforms. The reason for heading out so far out was to avoid the nearby river system and wind shadow which could have caused me lots of problems.

Globo, one of the big Brazilian TV channels ran a story on my trip a couple of days ago which has made me a bit of a celebrity out here.

So now when I land in what I think is the most random and remote place, people run up to me asking “are you the crazy guy we saw on TV.

The wind swung in the afternoon and picked up to a pleasant 17-20 knots which gave me an afternoon of stress free kiting right next to the beach.

I’m could get used to this stress free kiting, I’m so over the harsh offshore winds, sharp reefs, sharks and rain.

Day 21 –

Every day has its ups and downs and today was no exception. This whole trip is one big adventure and today is one of those days I will be talking about for a long time to come. So it all started out well, with Jon Brands from Pointa Negra Gym loaning me his Cabrinha 140cm Custom board in exchange for him being able to ride my directional board. The Cabrinha Custom is my favorite board for freestyle but wasn’t my first thought for a long distance speed mission.

When I started riding I realized this board was the polar opposite of what I had been riding. Its tiny 3.5 cm fins, super rocker and designed for freestyle sliders made it feel like I was switching from driving a fast racing car with good tires to a using a skateboard. After 25km of riding and changing the binding setup to something more “normal” I finally got to a point where the board felt good.

Everything was going well until I rapidly felt my eyes deteriorating to the point where I was struggling to keep them open. Thinking it was a combination of sun and salt water I made a bee line for the nearest beach which was only 10m wide. There was nowhere to self land so I tried to control the kite with one hand and open my bag with the other. I got out some water for my eyes and a T-shirt to act as a sun shield and waited for 10-15 minutes to see if my eyes would settle down all while trying to control my 11m kite in 25 knots. I headed out again hoping my eyes would improve and to find a better landing spot but my eyes deteriorated to the point where I could barely see and I was forced to close my eyes them, kiting only by feel alone.

Spotting the next inhabited beach I made a dash towards some boats to a spot where I could self land. With the turbulent wind and my poor eyesight I only barely managed to do this. My eyes were painfully stinging and I noticed that my had nose blocked up, so I self-diagnosed an allergic reaction and dug through my first aid kit to find some antihistamines. It was the right call and over the next hour my eyes improved to the point where I could see again without pain. I’m not sure what caused it and have never experienced anything like it before, but I’m glad it could be resolved relatively quickly. The next part of my journey was uneventful and I felt that I had made real progress when I kited around the curve of Brazil today.

A large lighthouse at signaled the tuning point, but to me it also signaled how far I had come.

Around 4.30pm, just before my destination of Sao Miguel do Gostoso, both my front lines broke about 800m offshore while I was mid kiteloop. I pulled the kite in by one line but my previous experience had taught me to be really careful around floating kitelines. Eventually I was forced to let go of the kite make a 800m swim for the shore while trying to keep an eye on the kite. Once I got to the beach I made a 800m dash down the beach to asses the situation and saw the kite floating half way out to a reef just under 1km away. Sensing this was to be a crux moment of the trip I stripped everything off (apart from my NPX board shorts) and made a swim for it that even Danyon Loader would have been proud of. The kite bar eventually hooked up on the reef and I managed to retrieve my undamaged kite. With only 30 minutes of daylight left I still had to get the kite back to the beach in a 15 knot offshore wind. I saw a windsurf instructor from the Dr. Wind Center come out to help but I tried to signal to him to keep an eye on me which he translated to mean some crazy guy is wanting to practice self rescue at 5.30 at night. I managed to get back to the beach with my new swimming stroke of one hand on the kite, the other attempting a one handed breaststroke just as the sun set.

Anyway the day ended safely with only a mildly stiff calf from kiting 80km of the 120km toeside which I am sure my friend Ali will be pleased to hear ☺

Hope tomorrow has a little less drama in it.

Day 20 – Twin tip wins

Well I have broken pretty much everything on this trip, 2 GPS, 5 kite lines, 1 spot messenger unit, booties, 2 drink bladders and a mouth piece, a pump (not mine) and a watch.

Today the Go Pro mount and the backpack shoulder attachment broke during a shoot for Reuters and Globo TV, I’m pretty sure I have broken almost everything I brought with me other than my kite and board!

The day started off with me contemplating whether it was safe to kite in the cross offshore conditions. Now that I am half way there its closer to go straight across over to Africa that up to Sao Luis.

The only thing stopping me from seriously considering it is inability to carry enough food and water for the trip.

I kited 17km into Ponta Negra beach to meet the TV guys and landed a little bit short due to the funky wind spilling off the hillside.

The TV guys wanted me to do 3 passes to get footage, but I was barely able to keep the kite in the sky on the way in so I was worried that it wasn’t going to work.  There was an additional threat of rain which added to the stress, and when I got to pass number 2 I hit a wave which caused the Go Pro camera to thrash around the front of the board.

We looked at trying to get it fixed but decided it wasn’t possible, and by the time I tried to leave that afternoon the wind was blowing 30 knots (55km/h).  This was just too much wind for my kite and big board and would have projected me like a missile.

My tactic was to get going early and ride the lower winds but the interview made this impossible.

Even simple things like getting the kite back down and self landing are a serious challenge in that amount wind.

I have figured out that my maximum limit going downwind with the current kite and board combination is 25 knots.

Chopping the fins improved the performance downwind a bit but not enough to convince me that riding it in direct downwind angles is going to be a safe idea.

So, in the interest of safety, I have decided to forego the one board idea and make it on one kite and whatever board works. The one board idea was self imposed and just something to make it harder for myself.

Kiting is about fun and as some have pointed out a twintip is just plain fun so I’m looking forward to doing some big boosty jumps, kiteloops and popping a few waves on the way.

I thank all of those who voted for me to keep the big board on my last post, but if any of you think that this is really a good idea then I challenge you to find yourself a 60l windsurf board and strap on a 11m kite in 30 knot winds, oh and please post footage, because  I’m in need a good laugh.

So the next challenge is to find a suitable Cabrinha board here in Natal. I haven’t managed to track anything down yet. So if anyone in natal has a suitable board that’s at least 138 is fast and good in chop, please let me know. I think something like a Cabrinha Caliber would be perfect.  I guess this is the beginning of the one kite, any board part of my journey and I’m excited to start picking up some serious speed!

Days 17 & 18 – little bit of luxury.

I have been resting up in Joao Pesosoa for the last 2 days and it feels like coming out of the wilderness back to civilization.

There’s a shopping mall just down the road with all the shops you would expect back home.

My hair was  starting to look kind of crazy, adding to the consensus by local kiters that I really am crazy. So, I have taken the opportunity to get a haircut even though I had been warned that getting your haircut by the like of this little fellow could spell trouble:

I didn’t speak Brazilian and my hairdresser didn’t speak English so the only thing for it was Google translate. It seemed to do the trick and got me a reasonable haircut, so I took my internet translation skills to the massage parlor next door and managed to get some of the aches worked out of my body too.

Bessa kite club is where I have been hanging out and it’s impressive. There’s a guy employed there to pump up your kite and rig your lines, then when you are finished he washes and dries your kite then stores it until you call for your next session.

The grass is perfectly manicured, speakers blare out a selection of funky tunes  and the fantastic kiting right out front all make for a brilliant setup. It’s a world away from the fishing hut and 50km of walking with all my gear.

The funky music lured me out for a bit of freestyle riding this afternoon although it felt weird being back on a twin-tip after riding my huge directional board for so long.

I’m waiting here in Joea Pessoa for a new cushy deckpad to be fitted for my back foot. Its a crucial change to the board as the my ball of foot and back knee have been taking a hammering in the chop. Hopefully it will be ready as promised tomorrow at 10am.

Although there was no wind forecast for today it blew 17-20 knots making weather forecasting in this area somewhat of lottery. What is certain though, is that the challenges of no wind are shortly to be replaced by too much wind the further north I go.

Winds up around 30 knots are commonplace which for those living in my hometown of Wellington may not seem like much, but I have a 11m kite and big board so progress might be difficult and hard on my body. The plan is to cut my fins down by 3cm as I don’t need big fins to go upwind now.

Something many people have been finding funny here is my self imposed rule of only walking or kiting to get anywhere. They have found a new way to amuse themselves is to offer me rides in their cars to parties and to see things amazing things.  Funny for them I’m sure, but I’m not really seeing the humour.

So if you want to help me my top requests are accommodation close to where I land, good food a shower, internet to check google earth and then I’m happy. Pretty simple really.

Day 18

I’m currently sitting in waiting impatiently for my board to be delivered with a new deck pad. Normally I’m pretty chilled out but I need to make Natal by tomorrow and don’t want to have to do it in one day.

Eventually the pads turned up and it was worth the wait as they worked a treat and looked professionally finished by Hugo Monetenegro from Xtreme Board.

I no longer feel like the ball of my foot is going to get a stress fracture and owe thanks to Theodore and Rafael from Bessa kite club for getting this organised for me.

Yesterday was the first day I made a mistake with the weather and really should have sailed instead of waiting on the board modification. To finish this trip in a reasonable time I need to take all the sailing opportunities that I can now and kite whenever there is wind.

I was joined by a young kiter today called Bruno Mendes who was keen to tag along. He was all hyped up and rushing around at launch time and I had to suggest he take a moment to calm down and take it easy. I have learnt from experience that when you’re in a hurry that you can forget to check crucial set-up parameters and that’s when things go wrong.

I picked up the habit from watching paragliders setup their gear, to follow a routine and double check everything, lines, canopy pack, GPS and inner dry bag etc before I leave.  This additional 2 minute check  could save me from a 2 hour swim.

It’s nice having someone along after the kiting is finished. I need all my concentration out in the ocean and at times it is distracting having someone else along. I have been thinking a lot about my inability to focus when kiting with others and I think I do have an explanation but that will have to wait for another post.

We ended up reaching a nice spot a little bit later in the day than I wanted, but it was still OK. Now that there is more wind I’m not so keen on pushing the daylight hours unless I really have to.

The forecast is for the wind to pick up to 20-25 knots tomorrow and I’m just not sure just how far my current board and kite combination can be pushed. For now, I’m happy to have some company with Bruno and I feel refreshed after my couple of days rest.  Armed with my new haircut, massaged body and the forecast for lots of wind, who knows where I will end up tomorrow.

Day 16 – all my limbs attached :)

I broke my usual routine yesterday of getting prepared the night before and leaving early to give myself plenty of time in the day.

The late night, which was out of my control, made for a late start and to be honest I didn’t think I would be sailing today with sea urchin spines in my foot.

It ended up being a “must kite” day because if I stayed in Recifie I would be stuck there with no wind for at least 4 days according to the forecasts. So I had to suck it up, ignore the pain  in my foot and kite until the wind died.

Uri the local Neal pride distributor was adamant that sharks were not a problem providing you were up and sailing. I spoke to other kiters too who were of the same opinion.  When I pressed on of them they told me that I had tried a few years ago but were stopped by a policeman.

So my major concern today was not the sharks anymore but how not to get stopped by the policemen who are able to confiscate gear.

I quietly pumped up my kite and laid lines in the local windsurf club hoping that I would not attract any attention.

The windsurf club has the biggest selection of course racing and windsurf gear I have seen in one place, and made my “big board” look like an undersized lightweight.

I made a quick dash out to the beach connected up the lines and off I went.

For the next 2 hours I kited with great care and made it through without falling once. I saw a black floating object in the distance which caused my heart rate to increase, but as I got closer I saw that it was less shark-like and more floating rubbish-like. There were several more elevated heart pumps as I passed more and more rubbish, but I was grateful that this was the worst of my encounters.

After passing the port in Recife I saw what looked like a small 1 foot fin that disappeared quickly, and I wasn’t going to go back to see if it was actually a shark or not.  I think my aggressive looking C3 Venom fins were a great shark deterrent and scared all the sharks away, well that’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

Once I cleared the port I was greeted with flat water  and kiting inside reef was pleasant and uneventful apart from walking a couple of sandbanks due to low tide.

The forecast was for winds to lighten as the day progressed and this ended up being true.  I body dragged into the beach, for 20 minutes to end at my new destination Joao Pesosoa with all my limbs attached.

Day 15

Today was one of the best and worst kiting days of the trip.
It was certainly the most mentally stressful day, mostly because I would be passing through “Shark Alley”, but also because of the extensive reefs that lead up to Recife.

One of the most common questions I get regarding long distance kitesurfing is “aren’t you scared of the sharks?” My answer is usually no, as the last fatal shark attack in NZ occurred back in the 60s. My lack of fear of sharks is based in a the stats which clearly show you are more likely to be hit by a bus rather than eaten by a shark.
However, there are a few places in the world where there are elevated chances of being attacked by a shark. Florida, Australia and South Afrcia all rate up there in the shark attack statistics, as does this area in Brazil:

A 20-kilometer stretch of beach that includes the most fashionable district in Northeastern Brazil, Boa Viagem, has earned a reputation as the world’s most dangerous for swimmers. Crime there is arguably no worse than in other urban beach resorts like Rio de Janeiro, but the shark attacks are unparalleled. Since mid-1992, 50 encounters involving humans and sharks –19 of them fatal – have been recorded along the short strip of coast. http://www.brazilmax.com/news.cfm/tborigem/pl_northeast/id/14

I have a love hate relationship with reefs as they provide flatwater which is great for kiting, but they are also a significant hazard.
Today I had a fantastic early morning run making the most of high tide, flat water and perfect wind angle and it was all going well until I ran aground on a sandbank at 9.30am.
I had given myself until 10am to head back into the open sea, further out from the reefs, but the sandbank hastened that decision. I attempted it several times but was unable to tack out though a nearby reef pass and eventually was forced to walk over the reef to get to clear water.
It was a really nervous moment crossing this reef and in the process I ended up dropping my kite on the reef.
Eventually I made it out to the open sea, but the relentless chop and difficult downwind angle didn’t make me any more comfortable so I opted to find the nearest habited sandy beach so I could find to check my kite and regain composure.
It took some serious effort to mentally prepare myself and head back out for an afternoon session challenging conditions, and the wind angle just wanted to pull me out to sea.
I thought the end of the day would never come and I was struggling to keep the kite in the air, as it felt like the lines had stretched again.
I was falling far too much for my liking (and for the potential number of sharks in the water) and I just wanted the day to be over.
I had been given some coordinates for a beach in Receife (which I was later to learn was named shark point!) and on landing I was greeted by fickle gutsy wind spilling off the high rises which forced me to pull my emergency IDS landing line.
I was greeted by this sign, but with some surfers in the water I was reassured that they would make better shark bait.

Feeling lucky?

I had to wait for 2.5 hours before I met up with my local contacts and then went for a late dinner, but the day wasn’t over until I had spent 45 minutes picking sea urchin spines out of my foot from the walk across the reef.
I am wondering if I will be able to kite tomorrow, but right now I am off for some rest and I’ll decide based on how I feel.

Day 14 – Marceo

Today started with an early morning swim back across the river from my accommodation.
There are some morning when it feels like I’m actually going to work and not on some fun kite adventure – this was one of those mornings.
The short run into Marceo reacquainted me with some uncomfortable chop reigniting my desire to find a better softer back pad solution.
Marceo is a milestone in terms of progress and I was keen to stay and meet the local kiters.
Andrew Soares has been a trusted contact over the last week providing valuable information and guidance on this leg of the trip. It was good to meet him and Phillipe the local Cabrinha dealer who helped out with some internet and information about the upcoming coast.
It was really hard leaving somewhere of comfort and luxury when I was feeling so worn out, but I needed to push on for an afternoon session while the wind was good.
The promise of a rear deckpad, 30km away, was all the motivation I needed to get up and riding again.
Unfortunately the deckpad didn’t materialise but a local kiter was kind enough to swap his wider softer straps which made things a little more comfortable.
The wind is good and I’m going to keep on kiting…

Day 13 – Wind!!!

Dear wind
You must have been listening to my request yesterday.
I heard your call after a fantastic French breakfast.
Your call of a light 10-12 knots breeze to get me started from Pontal du Peba was all I needed to get motivated.
I stroked away with my kite gently caressing you and willed you on for more. You responded at times with 15 knots and I was ever hopeful that you might even deliver more.
You played with me, teased and eventually gave up leaving me longing for more.
Finally I ended my day walking along one of the most beautiful pristine beaches I have ever seen.
I walked as far as I could hoping to see you again, but eventually the beach disappeared as high tide came in and I was forced to retreat back to civilization at Barra de São Miguel.

My friends at PredictWind say you might make an appearance tomorrow. I really hope you do because I am excited about getting to Marceo.

Love from your ever patient and faithful kitesurfer.

Day 12 – Dear Wind

Dear wind
You promised to turn up today so I didn’t have to do any more walking.
Unfortunately, you brought your friend the rain and spoiled what could have been a nice windy day. I have been very patient with you, so its only fair that you blow 15 knots or more, so I can sail to Marceo and drink beer with
Philipe and Andre.
It is really nice here in the fishing village of Pontal Do Peba, so I am happy for the moment, and I am prepared to walk again tomorrow, if you are still on holiday.
I have taken my brothers advice and been trying to eat lots of beans, but unfortunately this strategy has not produced any more wind than you did today.

Love from your dedicated and patient kitesurfing fan

Its day 12 and I have just been reflecting on the days since leaving Aracaju. Before I left everybody gave me dire warnings about having no support crew, a big river to cross, endless deserted beaches and they all worried about how I would communicate when I don’t speak Portuguese .
Well it all worked out just fine and it was actually quite nice not having anyone speak english.
I’m no Bear Grylls nor am I pretending to be but his teachings are that there are always resources in any environment and you should never starve if you look in the right places.
I am thankful to the people along the way who have all assisted me in some way in the last 4 days, even though I was in what seemed like the middle of nowhere.
It seems to me even on a deserted beach, there is always some random person that pops out and surprises you when you least expect it. A few people of note have been the fisherman a couple of nights ago who fed me off a
Frisbee and provided a place to put my hammock up. Carlos, Georgie and his family for having me stay and feeding me. I had heard about the generosity of the Brazilian people and now I can say for sure its true. This trip is not just about a number its also about the people along the way.
Tonight I’m staying at Chez Julie run by a group of French people. It turns out I know way more french than Portuguese and it was an interesting conversation with a bit of English, French and Portuguese.
I am told there is a Kiwi living close by so who knows if our paths will cross on my walk tomorrow.
I say walk, because I think the wind is still on holiday up in the NE of Brazil, but whatever tomorrow brings in wind, I know if will bring so much more in people.

Days 10 and 11 – walk, swim, walk

So I was awoken again at 5 am for a full day of walking.
The walk was slow going and I was really uncomfortable carrying my kite, my backpack and my huge board.

The 2 river crossings were relatively uneventful, but they did have potential for getting hooked up in the mangroves. I did look twice at the first crossing early this morning as memories of shark attack statistics were playing back in my head.
Early morning, dirty brown water and river mouths are all risk factors but in the end I just got on with it and put the thought out of my head.

Progress at the end of today was stopped dead in the tracks because of high tide and no way around the mangroves.

I did consider putting up my kite to try and kite over the mangroves, but the words of wisdom, “start early and camp early” were ringing in my head.

Some local fisherman hosted me in their basic hut on the beach, next to a river and beautiful sunset.

It was a perfect way to end the day swinging in my hammock as the fishermen roasted their freshly caught fish over an open fire.

The fishermen were suitably impressed with the Hennessy hammock I strung up next to their more basic and heavy versions.

After a good nights sleep I awoke early to finished off the journey I started yesterday and arrived at the Rio Sao Francisco river.
Today’s excitement was crossing the only way possible – by swimming.
I walked up the river a bit and parked myself next to some fishermen, contemplated my options, and for almost an hour I studied the river and its flow patterns. The outgoing flow across the 800m wide river was moving pretty quick to start with, but as the tide changed and started to come in I sensed my opportunity. The outgoing debris floating out to sea suddenly stopped moving, so I packed everything up, strapped the kite to the board and put the backpack on my back.
Thankfully breaststroke is one of my favorite swimming stokes, because for the next half hour a one arm version of it was put into action with the board out front. I’m sure swimming that river raised a few eyebrows from the locals but I got across!
The swim was timed perfectly and I landed exactly where I wanted to be.
That wasn’t the end of the adventure as I followed up the swim with a 17km walk to Pointal do Peba.
Finally thirst got the better of me and the half liter of water in Peba I had never tasted so good.
My back and shoulders ache, and my body is pretty worn down after today, but I’m glad with how much progress I made, even if none of it was kiting.

It’s windy right now and the forecast shows wind for tomorrow, so I plan to try and finish up in Marceo.

Right now however, its time to rest this tired body of mine.

Day 9 – Decision Time

The days are slipping away and so is my opportunity to complete 2000km.
The southerly winds that are predominant during the month of July are replaced by NE winds in August which means progress will eventually become impossible in a short amount of time.
Today there was wind at 11pm which intensified and spurred me into getting ready for action but by the time I reached the beach the scene was completely windless.
I have to make a decision in the next couple of days about whether I should cut the trip short and head up further up the coast north of Recefe to kite in that area.
It would be pretty gutting after all I have done to get here but the reality is that the window of opportunity is closing or may have already closed.
The official world record is still only 330km so I would be still on to easily break this, but I set myself a goal of 2000km and I really want to do it.
If the wind doesn’t arrive soon then I will have to walk 30km tomorrow to the San Francisco river.
Normally 30km would not be a problem for me with if kitted out with a decent backpack.
However, it is going to be pretty brutal with the amount of gear I have as there is no easy way to carry my board and I have additional hindrance of walking in sand.

The backpack I have with me is the 5th iteration and have made it as comfortable as possible for a kite trip on the water.

It is not the best backpack for walking with or carrying heavy loads over long distances and if not packed perfectly can cause me a lot of back pain.
So its decision time.
I need at least 3-4 good strong 15-20 knot southerly days to get out of here and head north to Recefe, I can just hope the wind comes my way.

The fine line between adventure and misadventure‏

If you were getting bored with the daily updates of waiting for wind, eating good food and drinking beer on the beach, then today’s adventure, or misadventure might just peak your interest again.
The incident today was potentially the most dangerous situation in my 3.5 years of kitesurfing.
I don’t need a reminder that there is a fine line between adventure and misadventure and fortunately today I stayed on the right side of that line.

The day started fine, at around 8am I left Aracaju with a steady 15 knots of wind and a choppy start across the Rio Sergipe River. Three of the local kiters had decided to join me to the last town for over 90km, Pirambua, and I thought the company would be nice.

As I made progress, fishermen with drag line nets and shallow water posed a constant hazard running inside the break, but I wanted to be social and try to stick with the local kiters so I chose remain inside the break against my better judgment. I paid the price on at least 3 occasions by getting snagged on the chord that’s used to connect to the fishing lines, and this just added more stress to my trip.

As I passed the last town for over 90km, I tried to assess the situation, but the wind seemed to be consistent and I wanted to make more progress. After another 10km, I could see an approaching front which was causing the wind to change direction, I had to make a decision, and decided to be conservative and kite back 10km to the last town and assess the new wind direction.
I knew the upcoming coast had limited resources to draw on if things went wrong, and I didn’t want to be stuck out there, potentially for a few days if the wind was going to be unreliable.
Having had the problems with fishing lines previously, I decided to make my way back up the coast outside the surf break.
The downwind angle was very difficult with the new NW wind direction and I ended dropping the kite ocean. I tried and tried to get control back, but I just couldn’t re-launch the kite and after fighting with the kite for what seemed like an eternity, my kite ended up in the surf zone where all 4 lines broke or were cut by my board fins about 500-800m offshore.
I had no choice, I had to swim back to shore, but I was wrapped in my kite lines and the more I swam the more tangled I got.

I felt like a floundering fish in a fishing net and when I finally got back to dry land, I was lucky that a passing local fisherman was able to help me. It took 2 of us over 1.5 hours to detangle the lines from my ankles, and although in hindsight it would have been easier to cut the lines off me legs, I was hoping they would have been repairable.

Hindsight is a wonderful thing, and I think back to the decision I made not to carry a knife with me, as I assumed I would be able to cut lines with the sharp c3 Venom fins on my board.

I managed to pick up a new set of lines and bar thanks to Glauber and Junior, and although I am carrying a spare set of lines I wanted to keep them as spares rather than have to kite with no backup.

Thinking about the incident, I know that I didn’t bring my A game today.
Kiting with others turned out seemed like a fun thing to do, but ended up being a distracting experience.
I know that this trip requires my complete attention and focus every day and it was there for the first 3 days however, sandy beaches and kiting with others put me in a more relaxed frame of mind and perhaps gave me a little overconfidence.

I was lucky today and I hope that this experience will help keep me focused and make sure I bring my A game every day.